I’m featured on Teaching Traveling!

I’m famous! OK, not exactly, but I’m honored to be interviewed for Teaching Traveling–a blog focused on teaching professionals who want to use travel experiences to enrich not only their lives but their classrooms. The entire article can be found here.

Putting this article together has really given me a chance to review the last three and a half years of wandering. While I’m happy with my choices, from a financial standpoint I’ve made some mistakes. For example, I basically paid to work in Russia, because the exchange rate was so bad, and fell sharply after I’d agreed to go. If I didn’t have money in the States to fall back on, I’d be in trouble! (And the fact that my first retirement starts in less than 2 years gives me a margin of safety, too.) I put away a lot of money before I started this new life, and I’ve had to use some of it, too. Most of my expenses are actually between jobs or setting set up for a new job. (And my hiking excursions don’t pay at all, but what’s the point of a traveling life if you can’t do some exploring?) Most people need to make enough money while traveling to cover all their expenses. That’s not been my experience. My teaching jobs only cover day to day expenses while in country. I dip into savings to get from one country to another, adventures between jobs, and setting up in a new country. Not everyone can do that. In the article, I briefly explore ways I could make more money while traveling.

One more thing I really should have added to the article is that you need to be comfortable being alone for long periods of time in order to enjoy this kind of life. I spend most of my time at a school being the “new” teacher. I’ve never taken a job that lasts more than a year. Making friends gets harder when you get older. Sometimes just as I’m really meeting people, it’s time to leave.

Here’s the text of the article (but it has some of my photos, too, which I won’t add here):

Let’s meet Beth Robinette of WanderForLife, a woman from Atlanta, GA, who is currently living and teaching in Mexico. Beth, tell us about yourself.

Beth: I’m 58 (58? How did that happen?) and originally from the mid-west. I was in my 40’s before I traveled outside the US, but I quickly got hooked. At this point, I’ve been to over 30 countries. I even had to get a new passport a couple years ago — not because the time limit was up, but because I had run out of pages! So far, I’ve lived and taught English in 5 countries outside of the US.

I’m a person who likes to change her life up every decade or so. I get bored easily. I’m in my third major career. First I worked in radio/TV, mostly as on-air talent in news and weather. It it didn’t pay well because I worked in small markets. Let’s just say that Jane Pauley wasn’t looking over her shoulder, afraid I’d take her job. I was dependable, but not major market material. It was interesting work, but also depressing. “News” is all bad news.

At 30, I went back to college and got a degree in Chemical Engineering, mostly so I could support myself “in a manner in which I hoped to become accustomed.” It let me get a pension and a retirement portfolio (which I’ll need someday). I also saved money to take “early retirement” to the current “job” I have now: international English Teacher. The pay is much worse, but I have a rich life!

T: Love it! Tell us more about your travels. 

B: I left my cubicle job in February of 2014. First I hiked 1,405 miles of the Appalachian Trail (that’s only about 2/3’s of the trail). Then, I began teaching English internationally.

I started in Vietnam for 5 months — and got to see Ankor Wat in Cambodia during a border run to renew my visa. I lived in Istanbul, Turkey for a year (with side trips to Athens, Paris and Belgrade). Istanbul is an amazing city with enough history to keep you busy for a lifetime, but it might not be the best option at the moment due to current events. It was a good time go… and to leave.

Next I did a one month volunteer job in Valencia, Spain, before hiking 450 miles of the Camino de Santiago, an old pilgrim’s trail that takes you across Spain, east to west. Then I took a two month summer job in Nahodka, Russia with a side trip to Moscow.

Right now, I’m living in San Luis Potosi, Mexico. I’ve managed to see several nearby towns and am surprised at the diversity in the culture. I’ve had to join the gym because the food is so good! In July, my one-year work visa will expire, so I’ve already made plans to move and work in Arequipa, Peru. Machu Picchu is on my list to see while I’m there!

TT: I am so inspired by your adventures. How do you find your travel opportunities? 

B: I’m mostly looking for work — not just travel opportunities. I have a job placement agency, through the school where I got my TEFL certification, but they’ve not been as helpful as I’d like. I usually find my own jobs, often through the internet. I also ask other teachers about their past schools.

TT: Brilliant. How did you find the money to fund your travel? 

B: I work in the countries I live in, but find that a teacher’s salary will only cover my day to day living expenses — rent, food and transportation around town. Not much more. I put away a lot of money before I started this adventure. I frequently need to dip into my savings to fund side trips, flights and get established in a new country. I also keep travel insurance, and my salary doesn’t cover this, either. I’m essentially a volunteer with room and board.

If I had not been able to save money before I left, I would have focused on countries that pay better — the Middle East (especially Saudi Arabia), South Korea and some parts of China. Unfortunately, these countries are not attractive to me personally and/or it’s difficult to get a work visa in these places if you are over “a certain age.”

I’d also seriously consider an English teaching position with The Peace Corps, since the do pay minimally and help you financially with transitioning back to the States. I may still do this, in fact. (NOTE: Consider this a hint!)

I could also make more of an attempt to monetize my blog, write more and promote my e-books, or find travel writing assignments. It’s difficult for most people to totally fund their travels through these methods, but they can help substantially.

Something I’ve been trying here in Mexico is being a live-in tutor (not an au pair). I live with a family and teach them English in exchange for room and board. I work evenings and weekends at a school for money. My salary goes a long way since I have few expenses now.

This situation is working out extremely well, but I’ve been lucky to find an amazing family. To make this successful, you have to have clear boundaries and responsibilities. Without these, you may think you are there to teach English and they think you are a combination maid/babysitter/cook.

(NOTE: for those who read my blog, you’ll notice that this didn’t end so well. )

TT: Interesting! Did you have a mentor or role model to help make your travels happen?

B: I have to say that the lack of role models was an issue for me. I probably put away a much larger nest egg to fall back on than I would have if I’d had someone else’s example to follow. Plus, my family was NOT happy about my career choice. It would have been nice to have someone I could point to and say they had done this successfully. I had to figure it out on my own. And I’ve made mistakes.

The biggest thing is that what I thought would be difficult, wasn’t. Sure, I get lost and I have translation issues. Of course all the food and the culture is foreign to me. Yes, I had to learn how to teach, and each school has different priorities and schedules. But that’s not what has been difficult. You can figure those things out.

What’s been the most difficult is, in my experience, all schools have stretched the truth. (NOTE: When I wrote this I used the word “lie” instead of “stretched the truth.”) Just because you’re promised a year contract, a minimum of hours, regular pay schedule, holiday pay… the rules may be different once you get there. Be emotionally prepared for that. This isn’t your home country, so you aren’t in a position to sue or even complain much. You have to decide if you can live with the changes or not. You can (respectfully) complain, but that’s no guarantee anything will change. You may not be able to count on them for much assistance, either. If they will pick you up at the airport, show you where the school is, orient you to their teaching program and help arrange a reasonable living situation, that’s solid. Any more is gravy.

TT: That’s frustrating! What tips do you have for potential English teachers abroad to deal with shifting school promises and situations?

B: To mitigate the situation, I suggest:

1. Before taking a job, get the email address of someone who has worked at the school for several months. Preferably talk to someone in your age group (at my age, I’m not interested in the night life or dating scene). Ask them how it really is at the school. Specifically ask about pay/hours/living situation/curriculum. Also ask about the number of unpaid hours you’re expected to work. Lesson prep and grading is never paid, but if there are weekly meetings, massive paperwork, office hours and extensive “training” that’s unpaid, you should re-consider. In theory, your placement company (if you have one) should help you with this, but mine is not very reliable and I suspect others are even worse.

2. Decide what’s most important to you. Don’t complain about everything. Pick your battles. Only sit down with the manager/owner for things that are really important. For example, when I moved to Mexico, getting Spanish training was very important to me. I was less concerned when I didn’t get the number of teaching hours I was initially promised or that holidays weren’t paid (though they were promised). When I didn’t get the Spanish classes I was promised, I sat down with the owner and explained the situation. I got the classes.

3. Learn to be self-sufficient and remind yourself that this is an adventure. Remember that you are probably seen as a commodity by the school — a resource that won’t be here long, so they won’t put a lot of time and energy into you. You’re on your own. Besides, if everything went smoothly, you’d have no great stories to tell later. Great stories almost always start with things going wrong.

4. On the other hand, you need resources and it’s important to make new friends. I’ve gotten a tremendous amount of help from my students. This can help them practice their English speaking skills, so it’s good for them as well. I often set up an hour at a coffee shop nearby once a week where I tell my students I’m open for free conversation. I come prepared with questions about the culture, things I want to find and know. If I need a new apartment or a second hand bike, I ask for their help. I learn a lot and they get a benefit too. If you do this, you’ll often get invited to parties, family meals, day trips or cultural events.

5. Learn to live within your means. I’ve got a blog post on How to Live Frugally as you travel. It’s very common for schools to pay a day or two late. Have back up money/credit cards/ATM cards. I’ve made it a rule that if I’m not paid for 4 days after a payday, I won’t teach. I don’t say it as a threat, but I tell them this the first time I’m not paid on time. I had to do this in Turkey and it kept them paying me, where other teachers would end up being owed lots of money because they were afraid to speak up.

6. Have “walking away” money and a Plan B. If they simply stop paying you or they don’t get you the work visa they promised (a problem I had in Vietnam), you may have to leave.  So far, Vietnam is the only school I left before the end of my contract, but I came close in Russia. On arrival, the hours were double what I’d been promised and the schedule was very different from what we’d agreed to. I was willing to give on the schedule (though I was very unhappy about it), but not the total hours since I was being paid a flat fee for the summer. I said that this wasn’t what we’d agreed to.

Their response was that the situation had changed. I simply said that I was sorry this wasn’t going to work out, and I’d just get a taxi to the airport and leave right then.  Since they had a full schedule of classes starting in 3 days and they’d promised a native English speaker to teach, they re-negotiated my pay. I was never able to trust them again, of course, but I’d made the situation something I could live with for the summer. I wasn’t that great at work negotiations when I started this, but I’ve gotten a lot of practice.

7. Be blameless. Always be on time and prepared for class. Do a little extra. Be nice to the staff. Be positive, especially when speaking about your school to students or potential students. If something goes wrong, you need to be above reproach. I was just in a situation where a large amount of money was missing and I was a suspect. There’s nothing worse than being accused of a crime when you’re a foreigner and don’t speak the language well! I was terrified! I was able to demonstrate that I didn’t take the money, partly because I had always been reliable and honest.

The next adventure

I moved into a boarding house in the last week (see previous post), and we decided to have a cookout Sunday night. From left to right, Paula and Christine (both teachers at English Unlimited) and Ricardo, who lives downstairs. This gave us all a chance to practice our Spanish.

I’ll be leaving San Luis Potosi, Mexico in just over 2 weeks. I’ve got a week in Mexico City, where I plan to take several day-trips to see some things I’ve missed in my year here. Then I’m off to the USA for a couple precious weeks with dear friends in Huntsville and Atlanta. I won’t get to see any family this trip, unfortunately, but it’s my first trip back to Atlanta in 3 years. I hope to see many friends!

And then I’m off to the next adventure: Arequipa, Peru! I’ll be working at the Extreme Learning Center, a private language school. I hope to continue learning Spanish and to see Machu Picchu before I leave. Based on visa restrictions, it looks like this will only be a 6 month adventure. I’ve got a few ideas for what I want to do after this one, but we’ll see what actually works out.

The chefs! Richardo (int he back) and Rico (who manages the boarding house and built the new grill). We have lots of left over chicken and grilled veggies to eat, but I notice all the beer was consumed!

As I prepare to leave, I’ve gone through all my belongings, giving away things I can’t take with me and throwing out things no one needs. When I fly to a new country, I only have room for a purse, carry on (usually a day pack), and I check two bags (a large backpack and a suitcase).

If you’re interested, here’s a short video on Arequipa.

Plus, I’m sharing some assorted photos.

A note from one of my Saturday, Level 17 students. Awwwww!
“With bread, the pain is less.” Must be a Spanish phrase that is new to me. “
My level 24 students graduated!

There are lots of religious symbols and paintings on the street.
Notice the “benefactor” is pictures in the lower right corner of the painting. That used to be popular in the medieval period.

Still in Mexico!

This is from my new neighborhood, Insurgentes. One of the things I truly love about Mexico, is how colorful things are.

…but not for long. Monday, I’ll start my final 4-week session with English Unlimited in San Luis Potosi. I’ll finish the first week of July and then will move on to my next adventure. More about that soon. Hard to imagine that I’ve been here almost a year! Every new country feels like a separate lifetime–full of new adventures and surprises.

…Even the graffiti is attractive.

I’ve lost motivation to work on this blog for a while. I hadn’t intentionally taken a break, but my mother’s death has hit me hard and I’ve needed extra time to contemplate. I’ve also had a series of small illnesses, which might be related to my mental state. Still, I want to post a few more times before I leave this area.

The houses are always a riot of color, even old ones that need some attention.

Flowers too. Here, poinsettias grow taller than a man and burst into flame red for a few months of the year.
You see a lot of religious iconography.
Not many orange buildings in the US, but you can easily find them in Mexico.
A jacaranda, crepe myrtle with a bougainvillea vine.
This is not the finished version. I’ll show that soon.
A white bougainvillea, with petals so thick they look like flowers.

And the street reconstruction continues. I’d hoped they finish with the main street of Carranza before I left, but it’s as messy as ever. Still, they need the plumbing fixed. Drainage is a major issue during heavy spring and fall storms.

I’ve moved. Again.

This is Ivan and Meliza, my new family! They let me teach their sons in exchange for room and board. They are here pictured in El Centro, Plaza de Armas.

I really didn’t have a concept of how many times I’d move during this adventure. It’s not always that I’m in a bad situation, but sometimes I just find something better. In this case, MUCH better.

The shabby rooming house I was living in was going downhill. There was always a plumbing issue. Usually at least one bathroom was always unusable. But lately the owners had simply stopped responding to requests–like the day we had no water, with no explanation or estimate as to when we’d have water again. It was over 12 hours and I never knew what the problem was.  Others had already left–half the rooms were empty–and I was looking for something better. One of my dear, dear students, Meliza, offered to let me live with her family in exchange for teaching her two sons English. It’s turned out to be a godsend–lovely people, a very nice home and a comfortable, safe situation for me. The boys even act as though they don’t mind my English lessons.

Sign on the boys’ bedroom.

The only downside is that it’s an hour’s bus ride to the main school branch. At least the buses run pretty regularly and are mostly clean and not too over crowded, but there’s lots of cobblestone streets and barely a shock-absorber in sight. I was working 26 teaching hours a week, commuting into the school twice a day (4 hours total commute time), all the usual (unpaid) prep time/paperwork/grading) and teaching the two boys daily. It made for long hours, less opportunity to blog and and a very tired girl.

This 4 week session I’ve landed a better schedule with half the commute time, so I feel much better and hope to come back to blogging more. I also hope to explore the new neighborhood more and—some please hold me to this–join a gym.

One event I didn’t post about from February: The Chocolate Festival! It was a small event, but it’s the first annual, so I expect it to grow.

Costanzo is the local chocolate maker in the area and a very popular choice.
Fortunately the festival had some nice samples. I particularly liked the mole bar–a dark chocolate with mole spices. It was mostly spicy with a hint of salt and sweetness. That’s a popular combination in Mexico.
Hugo and his mom, Meliza, pose with one of the chocolate sculptures.
all chocolate!

Looking down on the Chocolate Festival.
The building is right off Plaza de Armas, a perfect location for rotating exhibits. Last month they had King Tut.

The alley of fondness

Entrance from Carranza Avenue

I’ve used El Callejon del Carino dozens of times. It’s a narrow pedestrian path, not more than 4 meters wide. I like it because of the evocative name and as a shaded respite on hot days. It’s only a block long, located between Francisco Madero Avenue and Venustiano Carranza Avenue, two major thoroughfares. But it was only recently that I noticed a sign at one end with an English translation. I translated the name as “the alley of the dear one” and an online translation called it the “alley of caring.” The sign called it the “alley of fondness.” I like them all. Continue reading “The alley of fondness” »