Camino: Days 22-23

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Camino Week 4
Day 22, Villadangoes del Paramo to San Justo de la Vega, 26k
April 22, 2016
It was an especially nice group of pilgrims in the hostel last night and we were lucky to run into them again today. Our guidebook suggested a 28.5k day, but we stopped short of that goal, mostly due to tired feet and heavy rain. We even hit thunder and lightening. It is a bit warmer and the wind has finally died down, but I’m tired of walking in mud, rain and getting soaked. My rain jacket doesn’t seem to keep me all that dry.

Tim in front of a mileage sign. Unfortunately the next town listed the remainder of the trail as over 300km. Anyway, roughly 200miles to go.
Tim in front of a mileage sign. Unfortunately the next town listed the remainder of the trail as over 300km. Anyway, roughly 200miles to go.

On the plus side, the fields are green and we heard cuokoo birds most of the day. It’s like hearing someone’s clock strike the hour.
My feet really hurt today–too many hard surfaces! So after my shower I simply lay in bed most of the rest of the evening. My feet were much better for it! In general the pilgrims hostels (albergues) are quite nice, better than almost any I stayed in on the AT. This night was an exception. Three bunk beds crammed into a single hotel room with barely room between the beds to climb to the top bunk. The bath was functional, but the whole place could use some attention. I usually snag a bottom bunk, but had a top bed this night.

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This display was in the middle of nowhere. Wonder who made it?
This display was in the middle of nowhere. Wonder who made it?
Tim isn't getting enough exercise just hiking! Seriously, he has a lot more energy than I do.
Tim isn’t getting enough exercise just hiking! Seriously, he has a lot more energy than I do.
Much of the trail looked like this today. No shade. It'd be awful in August.
Much of the trail looked like this today. No shade. It’d be awful in August.

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That's San Justo de las Vega below.
That’s San Justo de las Vega below.

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Day 23, San Justo de la Vega to El Ganso, 18k
April 23, 2016
I simply wasn’t into hiking today. Nothing is hurting, no blisters, just tired of walking in rain and dark skies. It was mostly an attitude problem, but the hostel didn’t help either. They didn’t get our laundry done last night and we couldn’t even dress until they opened the bar at 8a! When you do laundry, you wash pretty much everything except what you are wearing at the moment. I prefer to do my own laundry, but most places seem to want to do it for you. I have one pair of pants I hike in and one for town. I’ve a pair of shorts to sleep in, but it’s been too cold for that.
First we walked 2-3k to Astorga, the town we’d expected to stay in the night before. There was the most complicated pedestrian railroad crossing I’ve ever seen. It was almost half a kilometer long! In Astorga we stopped for coffee and breakfast. At the halfway point I would have taken a bus if one was available, but none was. There was heavy rain before lunch. Though we occasionally got a hint of sun, like yesterday, there were thunderstorms in the afternoon with a noticeable temperature drop. This is not the fun part.

The pedestrian overpass is overkill.
The pedestrian overpass is overkill.
Astorga
Astorga

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Astorga
Astorga
This building in Astorga was designed by Gaudi.
This building in Astorga was designed by Gaudi.

We stopped short of our goal of Rabanal del Camino and are in a surprisingly nice hostel in the middle of nowhere. It’s filled up since we arrived and based on the chatty Italian, it could be a noisy night. It was a gradual assent all day. According to the guidebook we will reach the highest point tomorrow. I keep seeing white capped mountains growing closer in front of us and I’m getting nervous.image

See? It's spring!
See? It’s spring!

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Look at that sky. The lightening started right after this photo.
Look at that sky. The lightening started right after this photo.
Waiting out the rain with new friends at the Cowboy Cafe.
Waiting out the rain with new friends at the Cowboy Cafe.

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Beth

I'm a professional vagabond. I quit my cubical job in January 2014. Since then, I've hiked the Appalachian Trail, The Camino, and taught English in Vietnam, Turkey, Russia, Spain and Mexico. I'm exploring the world.

2 thoughts on “Camino: Days 22-23”

  1. Beth, you made it to Astorga, fantastic! cross of iron is coming soon! You actually took a photo of our hotel which is to the right of that church in Astorga in that small square. And yes I remember that green crossover – we had to “trek” our bicycles up and over, wondering what the heck!!

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