The alley of fondness

Entrance from Carranza Avenue

I’ve used El Callejon del Carino dozens of times. It’s a narrow pedestrian path, not more than 4 meters wide. I like it because of the evocative name and as a shaded respite on hot days. It’s only a block long, located between Francisco Madero Avenue and Venustiano Carranza Avenue, two major thoroughfares. But it was only recently that I noticed a sign at one end with an English translation. I translated the name as “the alley of the dear one” and an online translation called it the “alley of caring.” The sign called it the “alley of fondness.” I like them all.

According to the sign: “Sometime during the late 1800’s when the old San Luis was much younger, not far from here, was a damned “pulgue” joint (more on this below) where transients, vagabonds and toilers gathers to drink. Isabel Bedolla, owner of the place, was the one who tended them. She was a beloved woman of ill reputation dubbed “The Affectionate.” The shack was visited by unfortunate lovers because The Affectionate knew how to comfort her clients, how to craft charms and how to cast spells to arouse and preserve love…or to fall out of it. The place was crowded by scofflaws and quarrelsome guests. It was precisely during a brawl that The Affectionate ended up with a number of bullets in her body. To be done with it at once, the city council had the lot cleared and opened up a new alley named by the people in memory of Isabel Bedolla.”

There’s a small coffee shop that serves sandwiches.
The alley is just for pedestrian traffic and the occasional scooter.
This is a small fountain built into the side of the alley. It is often decorated with flowers and dedicated to the Virgin Mary of Guadalupe.

Pulque is a fermented beverage made from agave, so it’s possibly similar to tequila before distillation. According to Wikipedia: “It is traditional to central Mexico, where it has been produced for millennia. It has the color of milk, somewhat viscous consistency and a sour yeast-like taste.”


Published by


I'm a professional vagabond. I quit my cubical job in January 2014. Since then, I've hiked the Appalachian Trail, The Camino, and taught English in Vietnam, Turkey, Russia, Spain, Mexico and Peru. I'm exploring the world and you can come too!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *